The Truth Behind TikTok's Skincare Obsession: Myth or Miracle?

With countless influencers praising it and promoting it as a miracle anti-aging, acne-fighting and “glass skin” producing ingredient, Retinol has taken over TikTok’s skincare scene.

The viral TikTok staple has resulted in users of all ages incorporating it into their routines—sometimes without fully understanding its effects. With kids as young as 8 years old purchasing and using this widely recommended product, important questions arise: Is retinol suitable for young, developing skin?

In this blog, we’ll break down how retinol works, its potential risks and benefits for younger users, and whether science supports its use at such an early age.

Breaking Down Retinol: The Role of this Ingredient

1. What is Retinol?

Retinol belongs to the family of retinoids, compounds derived from Vitamin A. It is often used in over-the-counter skin care products, while stronger forms like tretinoin (Retin-A) and retinoic acid require a prescription.

So how exactly does retinol work?

1. Increasing cell turnover:

Cellular turnover is the process of producing new skin cells to replace older ones, keeping the skin smooth, healthy, and radiant. This cycle occurs approximately every 28 to 40 days, but slows down with age, leading to a more dull, uneven texture, and skin congestion. Thus, speeding it up speeds up skin renewal as it sheds dead cells faster.

But how exactly does cellular turnover work?

New skin cells are generated in the basal layer (the deepest part of the epidermis), these cells gradually move upward, replacing older cells. Once they reach the surface, they die and shed, making way for fresher, healthier skin.

In young skin, this process happens rapidly, which is why children have naturally bright and soft skin. However, as we age, turnover slows, leading to buildup of dead skin cells, contributing to hyperpigmentation, rough texture, and dullness.

But what is the Link Between Cellular Turnover & Acne?

In acne-prone skin, more dead skin cells are often produced, but the turnover process can be extremely slow and inefficient, leading to dead skin cell buildup which can clog pores leading to breakouts. 

How does retinol help?

Retinol and retinoids are widely recognized for their effectiveness in increasing cellular turnover. These Vitamin A derivatives stimulate Cell Renewal by interacting with skin cells at a receptor level, encouraging them to divide and shed faster than normal. This helps replace old, damaged cells with new, healthy ones at an accelerated rate.

Moreover, retinol helps speed up Keratinocyte Migration. New skin cells, called keratinocytes, are generated in the basal layer of the epidermis. Retinol encourages these cells to move upward more quickly, ensuring that fresh cells reach the surface faster.

However, children already have a fast cellular turnover rate, young kids around the ages of

4-12 years of age have a cellular turnover rate of around 10 to 14 days whereas adults 20-50 years of age have cellular turnover rates of 28 to 40 days. Therefore, young kids naturally regenerate skin quickly, thus, exfoliants like retinol are unnecessary. Their skin doesn’t need extra stimulation for renewal and can become easily irritated with the strong ingredients.

2. Boosts Collagen Production:

 In addition to increasing turnover, retinol stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis. Fibroblasts are specialized skin cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin—the proteins that maintain skin firmness and elasticity. Retinol binds to retinoic acid receptors in the skin, triggering fibroblasts to produce more collagen fibers. Moreover, Retinol plays a key role in slowing down collagen breakdown. As we age, collagen naturally degrades due to UV exposure, oxidative stress, and enzymatic activity. Retinol helps inhibit these enzymes, slowing down collagen degradation and preserving skin structure. 

Why is collagen important?

Collagen forms a structural framework for the skin, keeping it firm and resilient. As collagen levels decline, the skin becomes looser and more prone to sagging. Therefore, collagen prevents signs of aging giving the skin a younger, plump and healthier appearance. Collagen also acts as a natural antioxidant, helping protect skin from UV damage by helping to neutralize free radicals (agents generated by UV radiation) which attack collagen and elastin fibers, causing them to break down faster than normal.  

However, collagen  production is at its peak during childhood and adolescence. Unlike adults, kids don’t experience collagen loss, collagen only begins to decline in the mid-to-late 20s. Thus, Retinol provides no additional benefit, as their body is already producing ample amounts of collagen.

Conclusion: Is Retinol Necessary for Kids?

In a final effort to concatenate, young skin renews itself much faster than adult skin, Retinol and retinoids are used to speed up slow cellular turnover, but kids' skin already regenerates quickly without help. 

Using retinol too early can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to irritation, redness, and unnecessary sensitivity. Kids have a thinner, more sensitive skin barrier, making them more prone to irritation from strong actives like Retinol. Retinol is primarily used for anti-aging, acne treatment, and hyperpigmentation, none of which are common concerns for young children.

For preteens or teenagers with acne, gentler alternatives like niacinamide, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide are more suitable under dermatologist supervision.

Bottom line? While retinol is a powerful ingredient, it doesn’t belong in a child’s skincare routine. Instead, hydration, SPF, and a gentle skincare regimen are all they need to maintain healthy, resilient skin.